Remember Boswelox? The dubiously named skincare ingredient may be gone, but it lives on as industry shorthand for “marketing ingredient, no evidence”. Dozens are “discovered” each year, none of them able to hold a torch to proven heroes like retinoids, hydroxy acids and antioxidants. But the mounting evidence for silk has me interested – or, at least, not declaring it utter Boswelox.
This Is Silk founder Sonal Keay has created an entire skincare line based on the stuff. Pre-development, she took to the British Library, discovering swathes of material about the medical applications of silk proteins and fibres. Modern dermatology is more sceptical, but peer-reviewed studies indicate that silk can significantly aid skin healing, and the application of silk in diabetes treatment and in corneal, nerve (Parkinson’s) and tissue repair are all currently being investigated.
This Is Silk contains a proprietary silk peptide, which, during clinical testing, was found to outperform leading peptides in the production of keratinocytes and fibroblast cells, leading to more collagen production – the key to firm, bouncy skin. Following an extreme allergic reaction at Christmas, I used Keay’s Power Up Silk Concentrate (£78) after my dermatologist-prescribed steroids course had ended, and I believe it made a positive difference to my skin’s recovery. Instantly soothing, this potent serum can be used neat or added to any cream (I recommend the latter).
Those with highly sensitive skin have long since found comfort in soft, cooling silk, while those of us with fine, frizzy and/or fragile hair may find fewer tangles, snags and hairballs after switching to it. But, at 49, I’m as motivated by the absence of slow-fading facial skin creases when I wake (a daily occurrence with cotton). Slip’s silk pillowcases, sleeping masks and hair ties (all of which I use regularly) are pricier than those found on Etsy and elsewhere, but founder Fi Stewart has the data to prove their superior performance.
Luxury skincare brand Tatcha has an entire collection based on the proven water-binding properties of silk protein (also known as siloxane and sericin). I loved using the gentle and elegantly formulated serum and moisturiser, but what stood out was the Liquid Silk Canvas (£25), a makeup primer. I was naturally drawn to the balm, but the liquid version is exceptionally smoothing and ungreasy on oilier skins. Both added a blurry finish to foundation and locked mine firmly – and silkily – in place.
