A capsule wardrobe can seem like a fashion unicorn: a nice idea but impossible in reality. But what if you could clear out the clutter and strip everything back to a hard-working core edit that will see you through (most) of life’s sartorial eventualities? What would that wardrobe look like and how do you go about achieving it?
Simon Chilvers spoke to menswear experts to hone a list of essential pieces into the sharpest edit. Follow their tips on what to invest in, from tailoring and classic knitwear to denim and the failsafe white T-shirt. The result is a streamlined, trend-free zone that will save you time and money. Here’s a handy guide to the key pieces to have in your closet.
How to build a capsule wardrobe
Jeans
Uniqlo selvedge slim fit jeans, £39.90
uniqlo.com
Nail the classics and the rest will follow – a good pair of jeans is the cornerstone of any capsule wardrobe. Either buy a denim brand like Levi’s or Wrangler or head to Uniqlo for the best hard-wearing selvedge denim on the high street. Darker styles are typically more useful than paler denim, as they can work for smart-casual events in the way a 90s paler blue wash can’t, but go with your personal preference.
Mid-weight suit
M&S regular fit wool suit, £299 for jacket and trousers
marksandspencer.com
Moss Bros tailored navy suit jacket, trousers and waistcoat, £369
moss.co.uk
Choosing the right suit takes time. Spend as much as you can afford to based on how often you will wear it, whether that be to work several times a week or to the odd wedding. Something simple and neutral will make the most long-term sense.
Tailored trousers
Cos pleated wool trousers, £110
cos.com
Wear them with anything – but make sure they fit just so. Get your trousers taken up or down to the right length for you by trying them on with all the shoes or boots you intend to wear with them and pinning the legs at the happy medium point. As a rule of thumb, your trouser should reach the middle to upper part of the back of your shoe and, at the front, have a notable but not-too-significant bend in the fabric where it hits the shoe.
Trenchcoat or overcoat
Massimo Dutti double-breasted trenchcoat, £299
massimodutti.com
A weatherproof trenchcoat or overcoat is a non-negotiable if you live in a temperate climate such as the UK. They’ve been worn by everyone from Hollywood icons, like Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, to Liam Gallagher. Try on single- and double-breasted styles, and shorter and longer lengths to figure out what works best for you.
Utility jacket
Carhartt beige cotton jacket, £130.49
thrifted.com
Thanks to Prada, field jackets and barn jackets are trending both on and off the catwalks. New iterations come distressed and, in some instances, cost upwards of four figures. For an authentic, cheaper and more sustainable option head to your local charity shop or scour secondhand sites. Brands to look out for include Carhartt, LL Bean, Belstaff and Barbour.
Gilet
Arket reversible quilted vest, £97
arket.com
The trick with a sleeveless vest is to avoid shiny puffer styles – you don’t want to look like an extra on Industry. Instead, choose a matt colour and something with a bit of texture, such as this reversible cotton one from Arket. It’s a useful piece for layering in winter. Pop it over a wool jumper on mild mornings or wear it under a thin coat for a heat boost on icy days.
Simple crew neck jumper
Asket the merino sweater, £100
asket.com
Community Clothing lamb’s wool crew neck, £69.50
communityclothing.co.uk
For an essential, a crew neck is a pretty humble wardrobe hero. A version made from 100% wool will be less sweaty than a synthetic blend. It should sit flat around the neck but avoid anything too tight, the aim is to be able to wear a thin T-shirt easily underneath it. If you don’t want to draw attention to your stomach, avoid ribbed-hem versions.
V-neck or roll-neck jumper
Community Clothing lamb’s wool roll neck, £99
communityclothing.co.uk
A black jumper was a key part of Steve Jobs’ uniform for a reason: easy and timeless, it’s one less decision to make when getting dressed in the morning.
T-shirts
John Lewis Anyday white T-shirt, £12
johnlewis.com
A white T-shirt is the fashion equivalent of a building block. You can wear it as the hero piece of your outfit, layer it under a shirt or pair it with a boxy jacket. Thanks to Carmy in The Bear much has been written about finding the perfect one. Yes, you need to consider the fabric and fit but you don’t need to spend a fortune. Once you find one that works for your shape, buy it in black or navy, too.
White trainers
Adidas Stan Smith shoes, £85
adidas.co.uk
£68
asos.com
Minimal white trainers, such as Adidas Stan Smiths or Original Achilles from Common Projects, have been a style staple for decades. Continuing to stand the test of time, they go with everything from denim to suits.
Boots
Grenson Declan Chelsea boot, £290
grenson.com
Among the most important foundational elements of a footwear collection, a decent pair of boots will be reached for more than anything else, especially given the erratic British weather. Stick to the classics, such as a Chelsea or Derby boot. Buy the best you can afford, then look after them. That means polishing them weekly and getting them resoled regularly to prolong their lifespan.
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Loafers
Russell & Bromley Rook Penny loafer, £225
russellandbromley.co.uk
A slip-on shoe, such as a Penny loafer, can be worn in a multitude of ways. Such footwear can be understated for the office, add flair to formal wear or be paired with a contrasting coloured sock to add edge on a night out.
Stripe shirt
Arket stripe shirt, £67
arket.com
A year-round winner. Wear open over a vest with shorts and sandals in summer or buttoned up under a jumper in autumn with chinos.
White Oxford or poplin shirt
Rise & Fall organic cotton poplin shirt, £72
riseandfall.co
Whether you’re going to a job interview or a wedding, a white poplin or thicker Oxford shirt will keep you looking sharp. Naturally breathable organic cotton versions are best to avoid those dreaded sweat patches. After washing your shirt for a smoother finish, iron it while still slightly damp.
Denim shirt
Levi’s Wellthread Wilder shirt, £100
levi.com
Practical and versatile, a denim shirt can be dressed up or down. For a more rugged take, look for versions that give a subtle nod to Americana workwear with reinforced cuffs and chest pockets.
Scarf
Barbour tartan scarf, £34.95
barbour.com
£35
johnlewis.com
Drake’s tartan scarf, £295
drakes.com
A colourful or checked scarf will add an elegant touch to more casual looks. Wool is naturally breathable, so check the care label to ensure it’s not made of a synthetic blend that will leave you with an itchy neck. Search TikTok for tutorials on how to tie the perfect knot.
Chinos
Dockers original chinos, £80
uk.dockers.com
£66.40
amazon.co.uk
Aim for a straight but not baggy fit. Check out Dockers’ original chinos, which come in three colours. Workwear brands such as Dickies are known for being hard-wearing. On the high street, head to Gap or look to brands like Universal Works and YMC for a style that’s rooted in workwear sensibility with a style twist. They may have plenty of utilitarian pockets but do avoid filling them up, you want to keep a streamlined silhouette, not off-duty woodworker even if you are an off-duty woodworker.
Knitted polo shirt
M&S merino wool polo shirt, £45
marksandspencer.com
Reiss wool polo top, £98
johnlewis.com
A little bit sporty, a little bit preppy, nothing nails smart-casual like a knitted polo shirt. Choose one in a muted colour, such as a pewter grey or burgundy, and long rather than short sleeves for the perfect base.
Camp collar silk shirt
Reiss Cuban collar shirt in bordeaux, £68
reiss.com
next.co.uk
Add a bit of pizazz with a fancier-than-usual shirt. Look for a flat V-shaped collar, sometimes called a camp collar or a revere collar, in a silky or fluid fabric. Choose a contrasting colour such as cream to wear under a grey suit or claret to lift black tailoring. On colder days, you could also wear it unbuttoned over a white T-shirt and formal trousers.
Insulated jacket
The North Face Quest insulated jacket, £160
thenorthface.co.uk
cotswoldoutdoor.com
Dragging yourself out of bed on a cold morning to walk the dog or take the kids to school is a little easier when you know you’ve got a duvet-esque coat on standby. This one from The North Face comes with a roomy hood and the added bonus of being waterproof.
Arty knitwear
iets frans.. Remi stripe knit jumper, £55
urbanoutfitters.com
Thanks to Marni and Dior, arty knitwear has become the new style flex. Spark joy on even the gloomiest days by opting for a louche relaxed take rather than a form-fitting style.
Shorts
Colorful Standard shell swim shorts, £60
harveynichols.com
£70
colorfulstandard.com
Rather than Paul Mescal’s penchant for a 3in inside seam, aim for shorts that hover around the 5in mark for year-round wear. These swim shorts with an elasticated drawstring waist and mesh brief lining work well beyond the pool.
